West Bank - As Palestinians
trudge across a barbed-wire passage leading to Jerusalem from the West Bank city
of Ramallah, hawkers and taxi drivers greet them with a din of multilingual
chants.
"To the checkpoint. To the
makhsom," one Palestinian driver yells, advertising in Hebrew for a two-shekel
ride that will ferry Palestinians from a main Israeli checkpoint near Ramallah
to another closer to the center of Arab East Jerusalem.
Palestinians are increasingly
dotting their Arabic with Hebrew words -- using Hebrew vocabulary not just for
communicating with Israeli soldiers, but also among themselves.
The language is a barometer of
just how intertwined Israeli and Palestinian societies are even as Israeli Prime
Minister Ariel Sharon pursues a plan to "disengage" physically from the
Palestinians.
But the Hebrew words that most
pepper Palestinian Arabic are also inextricably linked to the conflict.
It is the men from Mishmar
Hagvul, the Border Police, who many Palestinians fear most. The paramilitary
security force may stop them on the street to ask for identity cards or to check
if they have a valid "ishur," or permit.
If there is a "seger," or
closure, or if the Palestinians don't have the proper papers, there could be a
big "balagan," which means a major mess in modern Hebrew.
The soldiers may address the
Palestinians in broken Arabic. But even if they cannot speak a word of Arabic,
Palestinians understand when they say "taamod poh," or stand here, in Hebrew.
If soldiers get angry at
Palestinian complaints of delays at the checkpoints, they may shout at them "tishtok,"
which means shut up, and Palestinians will understand.
Some Palestinians, angry at
Israel for killing at least 3,000 people during a nearly four-year-old
Palestinian uprising in which more than 900 Israelis have also died, swear they
do not utter a single word of Hebrew.
The use of Hebrew flouts
long-standing public sentiment across the Arab world rejecting any normalization
with Israel.
But from Palestinians who eat
Israeli-style chicken schnitzel sandwiches at beach cafes in occupied Gaza to
men who chat incessantly on the "makhshir," a walkie-talkie mobile telephone
popular among Arab youth, Hebrew is inescapable.
"I tell my students not to use
these words. They are Hebrew. I tell them they are alien words in the Arabic
language," al-Quds University professor Munther Dajani said.
But he said he did not expect
the words to have staying power in Arabic if Israel withdraws from the West Bank
and Gaza Strip, occupied since the 1967 Middle East war.
"You never hear someone saying
'I am going to buy bread' in Hebrew. I will start to worry if I hear things like
that," he added.
Israeli Arabs, descended from
families that stayed while hundreds of thousands of Arabs fled or were forced
out during the 1948 war that led to Israel's creation, were among the first to
use Hebrew.
Its sway later spread to
Palestinians in the West Bank and Gaza, where Israel built settlements and long
pursued a policy of economic integration.
Use of Hebrew is not limited to
military terms. Palestinians and fellow Israeli Arabs also use it to describe
ordinary life -- words like traffic light or car alarm -- even when suitable
Arabic alternatives exist.
One Israeli Arab waiter at a
restaurant in the coastal town of Jaffa, near Tel Aviv, that is patronized by
both Jews and Arabs seamlessly mixes the two languages.
"Do you want to sit outside in
the open air or inside with the mazgan," he asks patrons, using the Hebrew word
for air conditioner in an Arabic sentence.
Israel is not the first
occupying power to have influence over Palestinian Arabic. English from the
British Mandate is widely spoken and some holdover Ottoman-era Turkish words are
still understood.
Hebrew has also taken on words
from Arabic -- borrowing slang from the dialects of Jewish immigrants from Arab
countries as well as from the Palestinians.
Although they may mock their
Israeli Arab brethren for being "too Israeli" in speech and dress, most
Palestinians understand at least basic words in Hebrew, a Semitic tongue that
Arabs find easy to learn.
Some are completely fluent,
having picked up Hebrew on the job, from television, at school -- or during a
stint in an Israeli jail.
Mohammed Dahlan, a former
minister seen as a possible successor to Palestinian President Yasser Arafat,
learned Hebrew in Israeli prisons and has proved his fluency in interviews with
Israeli media.
"The occupied always has a
stronger interest to study the language of the occupier, for his survival," said
David Grossman, an Israeli author who describes the Arabicized Hebrew words as
the linguistic "metal joints of the occupation."
"It really reflects the place
of the occupation in their lives. It is the places where they are stopped, held,
interrogated, threatened. So they use these words," he said.
Even when Palestinians complain
about Israel's grip on the West Bank and Gaza, many do so using Hebrew terms.
One Palestinian taxi driver in
Jerusalem, lamenting he can no longer drive direct to Ramallah but must drop
passengers off at one of two checkpoints on the way, does so in a mixture of
Hebrew and Arabic.
"From makhsom to makhsom," he
says, referring to the army roadblocks. "What can we do?"