MIFTAH
Tuesday, 23 April. 2024
 
Your Key to Palestine
The Palestinian Initiatives for The Promotoion of Global Dialogue and Democracy
 
 
 

Bethlehem - When the three wise men left Bethlehem after bringing gifts of gold, frankincense and myrrh to the newly born Jesus, who could have imagined, 2000 years later, what today’s pilgrims and tourists visiting the holy city would have to go through by way of security checks.

Any tourist leaving, or entering, the city of 30,000 people faces a daunting array of high-tech security measures as they enter a new £4.5 million terminal which opened last month. Once inside, they pass through five electronically controlled turnstyles, two X-ray machines and a final passport check. Their belongings are X-rayed separately.

Situated along Israel’s 423-mile security barrier, the new terminal at the entrance of Bethlehem is one of four stations that will be operational in the West Bank in the next two months.

These new terminals are raising Palestinian fears that the Israeli government is using its security barrier to draw a final international border between Israel and a future Palestinian state.

But in the run-up to Christmas, Bethlehem mayor Dr Victor Batarseh’s immediate concern is the new terminal’s impact on tourism. Sitting in his wood-panelled office overlooking the tree-lined Manger Square, Batarseh says: “It is the main obstacle to the revival of tourism in Bethlehem.”

Before the new terminal opened, Israeli soldiers would board tourist buses and check travel documents, says Batarseh. But now tourists are having to go through the terminal and sometimes face hour-long waits.

Traditionally, Christmas and Easter are the busiest times for Bethlehem. Many tour groups spend three or four nights in Bethlehem, using the city as a base to visit other tourist attractions such as Jerusalem, Jericho and the Dead Sea. But several hotels have reported cancellations because of delays at the terminal.

At the 210-room Bethlehem Hotel in the city, general manager Anwar al-Arja says three tour groups have cancelled for this reason, including an English tour operator group which had booked a four-night stay in 150 rooms this Christmas. “It takes time and tourists don’t want the hassle,” says Arja in the cavernous marble reception area of the hotel.

The Israeli authorities deny that the new terminal will deter tourists. Lieutenant-Colonel Aviv Feigel, head of the District Co-ordination and Liaison for Bethlehem, says the measures are being taken to prevent suicide bombers and the smuggling of weapons into Israel. He says the only reason tourists are being checked is in case they mistakenly carry a package that contains a bomb. “In 2004, half the suicide bomber attacks on Jerusalem came from the Bethlehem area,” he says. “We need to achieve a balance between security and access. The terrorists, not the tourists, are our target.” The outbreak of the second intifada in September 2000 proved disastrous for tourism in both Israel and the Palestinian-occupied territories. But in the past two years, there has been a slow recovery in Bethlehem. The Palestinian tourism industry is expecting 275,000 visitors in Bethlehem this year, more than double the number of visitors last year.

But the Palestinian Tourism Ministry is worried that the revival will be stunted because of the issue of access to the city. Megan Clark, 24, an American university graduate visiting Bethlehem, says going through the terminal is an “ominous” experience. “I just feel like cattle,” she says. “I think it’s so ominous, sterile. It’s just awful – it seems so unnecessary.” Part of the knock-on effect of some tourists not staying a night in Bethlehem – instead visiting the Church of the Nativity for half an hour – is that restaurant owners and souvenir shop keepers, particularly olive-wood carvers, now say they are paying the financial penalty.

The Holy Land Arts Museum, a souvenir shop, is bursting with olive-wood carvings of nativity scenes, individual carvings of Jesus, Mary, Joseph, the Archangel Gabriel, and plain-wood Christmas decorations. Owner Joseph Giacaman says that they “are checking tourists too much” at the terminal and he can’t make a living.

This week, the 64-year-old will leave the Middle East for the first time. He will attend a trade fair in the German city of Leipzig to try and bolster the sales of his ware. “If the work doesn’t come to me,” he says, “I’ll go to the work.”

 
 
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