The title of this article refers to the nickname given to Palestinians living in the Arabian Gulf because of the intensity with which they use chickpeas in their cooking. Even though chickpeas cannot be classified as staple food, they probably are the most frequently used raw material in the Palestinian kitchen. Chickpeas make their way into a number of delicacies such as sahen (a plate of) hummus and falafel, and they are added to rice and all sorts of vegetarian dishes for added nutritional value, especially in the absence of meat. Chickpeas are also used for garnishing and in the stuffings for vine and other leaves, for vegetables, bird’s and sheep’s stomach from which the venerated dish known as “karshat” is made. In the past chickpeas were mixed with wheat and ground into flour.

Hamleh, which originated in the Mediterranean basin, is a bushy leguminous plant cultivated in Greater Syria for its rounded pea-like seeds that are enclosed in pods. Hamleh is traditionally roasted over coals and is a favourite snack among Palestinians for nibbling on.

Dried chickpeas have a high-energy content and are rich in carbohydrates, proteins, phosphorus, calcium and iron. After soaking in water overnight or longer, they are left to simmer gently for one to two hours. The addition of some sodium bicarbonate helps reduce cooking time. The cooked chickpeas are called balila. Each pea should be absolutely tender but still intact. Balila is consumed hot, in its own water, with the addition of some cumin, a squeeze of lemon juice and some chopped parsley.

The name is derived from filfel, Arabic for “pepper.” Falafel paste is made when soaked, dried chickpeas are ground, when soft, with onion, garlic, parsley and fresh coriander. The paste is then seasoned with cumin, shata (hot pepper paste) or black pepper, salt and a sprinkling of sodium bicarbonate to help it rise. Formed into tiny balls and dropped in deep hot oil to fry until brown, each falafel ball is to be crispy on the outside, soft and green inside. If you fail to add the sodium bicarbonate the result will be hard rather than crispy. Alternatively, breadcrumbs will do the same job. Always try frying one ball first, to see the result, so that you don’t spoil the whole lot.

Sahen hummus is the official breakfast dish in all Syrian countries. One can now witness the proliferation of hummus-serving restaurants all over the Arabian Gulf countries. Hummus, not fool (fava beans) is usually associated with falafel. Although falafel and fool are not as honourable, they are just as popular. Hummus can be served creamy, the most preferred way, or as msabbaha, which literally means “swimming.” Pine nuts are fried in fat and poured on top of hummus covered with balila. The fat used is olive oil or samneh, which is clarified butter, for those who do not need to watch their weight. Fateh is another hummus-based dish. Fateh means breaking bread into pieces to soak in a liquid, usually stock or yoghurt. The stock for fateh is that of the balila and the bread is classically shrak (thin, flat bread). Titbeehleh, the dressing, is basically made of hamid, i.e., any sour liquid such as lemon juice, and olive oil, plus the typical addition of crushed garlic and crushed chili pepper, in this case. You can vary the taste to your liking but, to stay within the Palestinian taste, the focus in on the hamid.

To prepare hummus, start with cold balila. If the balila is hot, the tahina that is mixed with it will start cooking and it will alter the taste. Finely grind the balila and mix it with tahina and beat with lemon juice and water in a blender until homogeneous and creamy. The hummus you prepare at home will never be as creamy as the one served in restaurants because they have more powerful equipment and they throw the pea shells away, but you would not want to do that for the shells contain most of the goodness. Furthermore, restaurants generally use excessive amounts of sodium bicarbonate that is not really necessary. The quantity of each ingredient with respect to the rest gives a different taste. Decide on the best combination by tasting and adjusting while the mixture is in the blender; don’t add anything else but salt, and garlic if you have not prepared any titbeeleh. As an indication for taste, hummus in restaurants usually contains a lot of tahina.

Hummus is served with a variety of pickles, such as olives, cucumbers, turnips and chilli peppers, and shata. Sahtein.

Source: This Week in Palestine