MIFTAH
Saturday, 20 April. 2024
 
Your Key to Palestine
The Palestinian Initiatives for The Promotoion of Global Dialogue and Democracy
 
 
 

As a Palestinian American born and raised in the States, I grew up with an eye on the conflict since I learned to speak. CNN reports of house demolitions, suicide attacks, peace processes and gunship assaults were a constant background theme at home that I barely registered and hardly understood as a child.

As I grew up I began to learn what was actually happening: the gradual destruction of a nation. Yet I still only studied it from afar, a distant observer reading secondhand accounts from halfway around the world. It wasn’t enough for me to truly feel like I belonged to that nation, I felt I couldn’t live my life comfortable and happy as an American and still say I am Palestinian when so much of what gives Palestinians their identity is the suffering they are subject to daily. So after graduating with a degree in journalism, I found my way here to begin my career.

Though I spent weeks traveling in and around both sides of the Green Line, seeing the situation on the ground and hearing the testimonies of people on both sides of the conflict, I never had the chance to feel the occupation and oppression myself until a few friends and I made the trip to Hebron, what may be the most hostile epicenter of the conflict. One of the largest Palestinian cities, with more than 160,000 Palestinians, it hosts about 500 Jewish Israeli settlers wedged into the middle of the city and protected by thousands of soldiers.

Our journey, started in the old city area west of the settlement blocs and followed the path through the market. Where we parked, shops were bustling and traffic was heavy. Yet as we moved deeper into the city, fewer and fewer shoppers were milling. Finally we approached an open courtyard with shuttered shops on one side and tall concrete walls and a watchtower on the other. Beyond the wall, a huge school loomed with lustrous Hebrew lettering floating on the marble work of the building. It was an ivory tower, beautiful to marvel at, yet impossible to approach and unthinkable to enter for any other than the exclusive group of settlers living there.

We continued through an archway with shops on both sides that ran parallel to the wall, winding along dark alleys and more empty storefronts. Finally we made it to the iconic bazaar of Hebron, covered not with tarp or umbrellas to protect shoppers from the sun, but with chain link fencing to protect them from the falling stones, eggs, old milk and trash from the settlers who live in the second story just above the shops. It was a daily reminder to the Palestinian population below that they are not welcome here, that the settlers’ waste and excrement had more right to the streets then they.

At the end of the market after continuing down the dark alleys, we reached the sealed gates of the Ibrahimi Mosque where the Prophet Abraham is said to be entombed. We discovered that since it was a Jewish Orthodox holiday that day, the mosque was closed to Muslim worshippers. It is routine for Israeli authorities to close off the Muslim section of the mosque during Jewish holidays or any other time they deem necessary. Jews, on the other hand, are free to worship as they please.

We turned back and made our way to a house that bumps right up against the settlement. The Israelis welded shut the windows ostensibly to prevent the residents from giving the settlers the same treatment Palestinians receive in the market. The owner explained how building after building in the neighborhood was sold to the settlers who offered exorbitant prices and a chance to leave. He, however refused multiple times the offers that he says eventually reached $10 million.

He lives in the house alone with his three young children. He described what he called the worst day of his life, when his wife was shot and killed on the roof of the building while hanging clothes. He said there was no investigation into who shot her or why. Yet the fact that only Jewish settlers and soldiers can carry arms in Hebron along with the three bullets in her head and chest leave him no doubts that his wife was murdered.

Finally for the last leg of the tour, we came to the checkpoint cutting off the main thoroughfare in Hebron, Shuhada Street. The situation was unlike anything I could have imagined - this once bustling street was completely deserted except for a handful of Palestinian kids sitting on a balcony giggling with each other as we passed underneath them. Strangely the neighborhood along this stretch is home to not only Jews, but to a handful of Palestinians who owned homes in the area before the settlers came. As such, Palestinians are allowed to pass through the checkpoint, but only locals from Hebron can enter. When we tried to cross, one of our companions from Ramallah was made to wait for us outside. Even those who could enter the street could only go so far before they were also stopped by more guards.

On the way out, a patrol of soldiers stopped one member of our group because he was holding my camera for me since I didn’t really need any more shots of closed down shops. They said they received reports of us taking illegal pictures and we needed to stay put.

I stepped in to ask what the problem was and they immediately took my passport. Then came the questions - What is your religion? Where is your father from? Grandfather? Nationality? An officer came to look at the passport and it disappeared with him, and so began what the officer called my first detainment with the Israeli authorities. They sent the rest of our group off and told the two of us to sit on the curb and wait. “It may be 10 minutes or it may be an hour or two,” one told us.

Sure, the dark blue US passport gives its bearer some protection, but the string of questions got the message across that it doesn't matter what this document says my nationality is: I am a Palestinian Arab Muslim and I was not going to be treated with kid gloves this time. The officer who took my passport started looking through my camera and said we were seen taken pictures of checkpoints, security cameras, watchtowers and soldiers which is illegal under the military authority. He asked why I would take such pictures. “I’m touring the city,” I said. “In America if you’re in public you can take a picture of anything you can see from the street.”

“This isn’t America.”

He said I broke the law and started deleting any pictures he deemed offensive. Then he came to a picture of a little settler boy in a blue kippah and asked me specifically why I took the picture. I said I saw him from the roof of a building overlooking the settlement and didn't think there was anything wrong with taking pictures in public. Visibly unhappy with my answer he told me, “Don’t take pictures of…” but stopped himself before finishing his sentence.

“Of Jews?” I asked. “I can only take pictures of Arabs?”

Eventually, after deleting a couple dozen photos, the officer left both of us sitting on the curb with the rest of the soldiers. After about 30 more minutes waiting, he finally returned in a van and ordered us in the back. As we began driving toward the checkpoint I began getting myself mentally ready for an interrogation.

To my great relief the officer turned around and began speaking in Hebrew to my companion who responded with, “hakol beseder” which immediately put me at ease. “Everything's OK.” This is the one phrase that almost all Palestinians know, even if they don't speak Hebrew.

The officer dropped us off at least a mile from where our friends were waiting and told us he was doing us a favor by letting us go. If I am caught again taking illegal pictures I would be arrested, he warned me.

My experience that day in Hebron wasn’t anything difficult or overly strenuous, but I finally had a taste of what it is like to be at the mercy of an authority that has complete contempt for you and can arbitrarily make your life easier or harder on a whim. It is the reality of any occupation in which vast authority is vested and very little accountability is required.

Nijim Dabbour is a Writer for the Media and Information Department at the Palestinian Initiative for the Promotion of Global Dialogue and Democracy (MIFTAH). He can be contacted at mid@miftah.org.

 
 
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