MIFTAH
Monday, 29 April. 2024
 
Your Key to Palestine
The Palestinian Initiatives for The Promotoion of Global Dialogue and Democracy
 
 
 

Everyone waits for summer vacation, especially if you are travelling abroad. It’s that time of year when you kick back your heels, relax and de-stress. Palestinians are no different, except for one thing. If you are a Palestinian living in the West Bank, there is only one way out of Palestine, across the dreaded Allenby Bridge into Jordan.

So, it’s a border crossing, most will say. How different can it be from any other border crossing in the world? The truth is, very different. For one, because Israel has banned Palestinians (save for critical humanitarian or medical cases)from travelling out of Tel Aviv’s Ben Gurion Airport, the only departure from the West Bank is the bridge, a mere bottleneck of an exit, especially in the summer months when most people schedule their travels.

Add to this the fact that, unlike airports and other international crossings, which remain open 24 hours, the Allenby Bridge closes during the night. The last bus out of the rest area in Jericho transporting travelers across the River Jordan leaves at 4:30 pm after which there is a minimum of a three to four hour commute entailing lengthy Palestinian security checks, followed by the actual Israeli border crossing until one final Jordanian security and border check before crossing into Jordanian territory.

The day is unpleasant, to say the least. Imagine this. Prior to the 1967 War and the subsequent Israeli occupation of the West Bank, it would take the average person an hour and a half tops to go from Ramallah to Amman in a private car. Now fast forward to today, after 40-plus years of military occupation and a firm Israeli stronghold on all aspects of Palestinian life, borders included. On a recent trip to Indonesia, I arrived at the rest area in Jericho, which marks the first leg of the trip, which goes something like this: Wait until a number is issued to you, (this wait could be anywhere from five minutes to several hours) before boarding a bus. First stop, the Palestinian “crossing” which really is no crossing at all given that the Israelis ultimately control who actually enters and exits. A Palestinian policeman boards the bus, collects all the ID cards/passports and disappears into a little office where the IDs, we are told, are checked against a security list – whatever that means in Palestinian terms.

Next, it’s off to territory under Israeli jurisdiction (we are of course, in Jericho which is Palestinian territory but this means nothing when it comes to the country’s international borders). Get off the bus, walk through a metal detector, flash your passport before an Israeli soldier behind bullet proof glass and climb onto another bus. If the bridge is busy – which is the case throughout the summer – one could be stuck in the bus for hours, waiting for the six, seven or eight buses in front of them to pass first.

Finally, the Israeli crossing. Disembark again, wait in another long line and submit passports, permits or ID cards into the slot in front of the Israeli soldier (again, sitting in a glass booth). A final computer security check and the grateful stamp signifying approval to cross Israel’s border.

Back in the bus to the next stop (where you have to rummage through a mountain of suitcases tossed carelessly on the ground), haul your suitcase into the bus and climb in again. Finally, a hop, skip and a jump over the ever depleting Jordan River, reduced to little more than a stream, and Jordan comes into sight. Once again, Jordanian border guards, digital tickets, interminable waiting, stamped passports and “green cards” (for Palestinian use only) before the border crossing is finally over and Amman (or the Alia International Airport) is a mere car ride away.

My Jakarta trip began at the crisp hour of 6:30am. Six and a half long hours later, I was on my way to Jordan’s airport. Six and a half hours of summer heat, rude Israeli and Jordanian border personnel (not to mention a few less than polite Palestinian policemen) and endless queues and waiting. And believe it or not, that was not too bad for the average Allenby Bridge trip.

Just to illustrate how bad things can get, my sister travelled via Jordan to the United States just a couple of days ago. Arriving at the rest area at 1:00 in the afternoon (thinking the later she went the less people would be there) she found over 2,000 people before her. No, I didn’t add an extra zero. Two thousand is right. Apparently, Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu held a meeting at the bridge that day so no Palestinians were allowed to cross all morning. No one was given prior warning of course, so hundreds of people had arrived early in the morning with the hopes of being on the first bus. That day, fate was to have it that this first bus pulled out the rest area at 3:00 p.m. full of frustrated, overheated and weary travelers who, if it weren’t for a lack of other options, would surely have turned back once they saw the crowd. My sister finally crossed into Jordan after 9:00 that evening, tired, irritable and frankly, humiliated by the treatment reserved only for Palestinians. I say this because my brother, who holds only a US passport, crossed with his children on the same day from the northern Sheikh Hussein Bridge for foreigners. The procedure was almost instant. Check, stamp and depart, the three of them were off to Jordan in no time flat. Coming back into the country was a different story for my brother, with hours of waiting and questioning by Israeli security officers, but Israel’s treatment of Palestinians holding foreign passports at its border crossings is a whole other story.

Palestinians of course, are outraged at such horrendous treatment and have demanded time and time again for the bridge to be open around the clock. Just recently, it was announced that the bridge would be opened until midnight as of August 4.

This will definitely be an improvement, at least in terms of the awful congestion. It will not, however, remedy the attitudes of the Israeli border employees who bark orders at the Palestinians, stall in processing their papers or just leave them waiting while they take a lunch break. Unfortunately, this attitude is a result of the oppressed/oppressor relationship created by Israel’s long-running occupation. The situation at the Allenby bridge is just one awful symptom of an even uglier problem.

Joharah Baker is a Writer for the Media and Information Program at the Palestinian Initiative for the Promotion of Global Dialogue and Democracy (MIFTAH). She can be contacted at mip@miftah.org.

 
 
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